Ramen/Burger

Biwa is, if not my favorite, one of of my most enjoyed restaurants in Portland. It is in every way a super sexy establishment. The open kitchen with full wrap around bar, the amazing menu, the friendly staff, and their creative drinks all add up to a great experience.

I first went to Biwa soon after they opened several years ago. I had a strange anxiety about it at the time; For years and years I had aspired to open the first Ramen joint in Portland, and now there was Biwa. I was disappointed it couldn't be me, but also excited that there would finally be a legit Ramen shop in my home town.

I was sorely let down. The broth was okay, I guess: I bit salty, no depth, a little thin. Don't even get me started on the noodles. They had none of the characteristics of a classic chuka-soba. I was bummed out, this hit so far below my expectations. I had to later admit that it wasn't a bad bowl of noodles, it would've been quite tasty if not for the fact that it was trying to pass for ramen. I turned my back and didn't return for over two years.

After college I moved into the same neighborhood as Biwa, and one lonely October night I found myself sitting at their bar. I stayed away from the ramen offerings and dug deep into the Yakimono (literally "grilled stuff") menu. Holy cow! This was food of the type I had not had since I was last in Japan! Perfectly prepared pork belly, grilled garlic cloves, plump onigiri, and on and on. I sampled a glass of sweet potato Shōchū over ice, a pleasant drink somewhere between vodka and sweet sake. What a meal!

I went back several times before I attempted the ramen again. The improvement was remarkable. The noodles were perfect, and the chicken broth (one of two options) was rich and meaty. Finally, I sighed, a passable ramen in my hometown.

Sometime during my frequent trips I introduced my friend Tyson to Biwa, and soon after came our friend David. We gathered at the ramen bar like beasts at a watering hole, packing away bowl after bowl and countless skewers of grilled meat. Heaven.

I had heard rumor of a mythical burger, served only on the night of their opening anniversary. Then further rumor that they had expanded it to Friday late nights, and perhaps even every night. Some heard it was served only after ten o'clock, I heard eleven. Conjecture and speculation ruled. One night Tyson and David found themselves at Biwa without me (grrrrr) late at night. A small slip, carefully printed on blue stock, was presented to them. Late Night Menu, it read. And there, at the top: Biwa Burger.

With rage in my heart I listened to them recount each bite, describing the light brioche bun nestling the Wagyu beef chuck patty and thick cut chashyu slab; the full, deep green butter lettuce leaf caressed by the house made kimchi mayo. Soon enough my rage passed as I too was able to enjoy what is surely, and consistently the best burger I have ever had.

Because we are brash young men, seemingly unaware of our own mortality, we soon took our Biwa trips to its (il)logical conclusion. Ramen/Burger. Beginning at 9pm, Biwa has a special bar menu, which includes a dramatically reduced price on the Ramen. Then, at 11pm the burger is served. One summer night, the three of us entered Biwa, found a comfortable spot at the bar, and consumed our respective warm bowl. We retreated to a nearby Karaoke bar and rested for the next phase of our attack.

Upon our return, the maître d’ did a double take, and the cooks behind the bar raised eyebrows all around. We sat in the same stools and ordered with confidence: Three Biwa Burgers please! A frisson spread through the place. A bold applause rang from the back kitchen, our server clapped us heartily on the back, the grill cook reached over the bar to shake our hands. We were heroes.

We were very, very full heroes. This feat has been successfully attempted only a couple more times, but the legend of the Ramen/Burger Three still thrives in the Restaurant. I once walked into a bar near my house and was greeted with a chorus of "Ramen/Burger!" by a table of off-duty Biwa staff. One of my proudest moments of 2010.

In short: You owe yourself a trip to Biwa soon.